I was last seen 5 months ago in Los Angeles, .
Mar 122008
 

When I first found out my flight home from Brazil would have an 8-hour layover in Panama, I was stoked. Add a country to my visited list, no charge! I tried to research it a bit so I’d be sure to get the most out of my short visit, but found that with such a brief stay the best bet would be to arrange a tour directly from the airport. So I showed up with literally no idea of what to expect.

I landed and walked up to immigration, telling the officer that I wanted to spend just the day outside the airport. He told me to purchase a $5 tourist card. Cool…they even accept USD! Continue reading »

Mar 122008
 

My trip to Brazil was finally drawing to a close. It was time to head back into civilization – into Rio – for one last day in South America before flying through Panama and back home.

We jumped into the jungle lodge owner’s little blue VW Bug and caught a ride to the bus station, along with our two giant backpacks and three kids who were hitching a ride to school.

It was pretty cramped.
Continue reading »

Mar 122008
 

After our morning’s little jungle tour and history lesson, Peder and I collected a hand-drawn map to the top of the “smoking waterfall” and set off on our own into the rainforest.

We first made our way up the paved road that we’d taxi’d up the night before, turning off into a small local village. One dirt road through a few dozen deteriorating homes and buildings, and up into the mountains through grazing cows and banana orchards. Everyone we passed looked over with an expression of pure shock: “What the hell are these two gringos doing HERE??”

At one point I noticed a herd of cows particularly near the road and decided to climb up a small embankment for a closer look.

Bad idea.

Suddenly both feet were engulfed in flame. Small pinpoints of excruciating pain shooting up my leg like I was being stabbed with a thousand poisoned needles. I jumped down from the embankment, almost loosing my footing in the process, and began dancing and flailing my limbs in a most maniacal fashion. Peder thought it was hilarious. Apparently I’d unwittingly stepped in a colony of tiny little super jungle ants, who in a massive coordinated attack all chomped down on my feet in perfect unison. And those little bastards were hanging on for dear life. Even with my violent foot-stomps they held on; I had to pull and flick off every single ant one-at-a time.
Continue reading »

Mar 122008
 

Jungle Beach is exactly what I’d hoped for when I noticed the poster on the wall back in Rio and suggested we give it a shot. An isolated little lodge in the middle of the Atlantic Rainforest, with a gorgeous waterfall just a few minutes’ walk from the front door, a babbling brook right outside our window, puppies and kittens running around, horses grazing on the front lawn, just a few other guests wandering about, and an altogether very authentic and pleasant feel. It’s owned by an American environmentalist (who went to UCSD!) and his Brazilian wife, and lived in by just a few others: the owner’s three sons (two of whom have mohawks), a cook, and a Filipino yoga instructor. The place reminded me tremendously of the Oso Peninsula in Costa Rica, except that it’s not coastal – the beach of Jungle Beach is actually a sandy freshwater beach on the lodge’s own little river.
Continue reading »

Mar 122008
 

We arrived at Rio bus terminal and started off towards Jungle Beach lodge. The directions, which I’d hand-written while making a reservation over a garbled phone call at Stone of a Beach hostel, were simple: Take a Viacao 1001 bus from Rio to Casimiro de Abreu. When you arrive, buy a ticket for the Viacao 1001 bus TOWARDS Nova Friburgo. But you’re not going to Nova Friburgo – you’re getting off along the way, so make sure you keep your bags with you and sit near the front. When you get on, show the driver this note in Portuguese. It says: Please drop me off by Cascata, 100m before the town of Lumiar. And stay on your toes, because there’s no stop and it’s easy to miss.

The problem was, when we got to Casimiro de Abreu nobody had any idea what we were talking about. We showed a bus driver our note. He had no idea. We showed him the flier for the hostel. Still no idea. Ticket salesman: same deal. He was willing to sell us a ticket on the next bus to Nova Friburgo – FOUR HOURS LATER – but couldn’t guarantee anything after that. Plus it was raining. If we waited four hours and took the bus, we could very easily end up in the middle of nowhere – in the jungle – in the rain – with all of our stuff, and with nowhere to stay. Continue reading »

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