I was last seen 5 months ago in Los Angeles, .
Aug 052010
 

Belgrade. One of the two cities I was most excited about on this entire trip.

When the minibus from Bosnia made its way into the city limits, the first words out of my mouth were “Wow, Belgrade feels REALLY different from Sarajevo.”

“Of course,” the driver replied. “Belgrade is a city.”

“…And Sarajevo?”

“A town.”
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Aug 042010
 

Have I really still not paid my bad weather dues for this trip? Really??

The entire first day in Sarajevo it poured nonstop, as hard as it had in Budapest. The hostel lounge was filled with people playing cards, drinking beers, and watching movies – nobody wanted to set foot outside. The rain had even knocked out the Internet, preventing me from taking advantage of the down time and being productive.

Lovely.

But at least the hostel was social – I spent most of the evening chatting with other travelers, including a young backpacker from London who planned to end his round-the-world tour in Japan during the summer (boy did I have some tips for him) and a middle-aged guy who was about halfway through his goal of visiting every single country in the world.

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Aug 032010
 

That gypsy over there! She took your phone while you were getting off the tram!” said a woman next to me as I reached into my pocket and looked up with an expression of panic.

I’d been in Sarajevo for less than twenty minutes. It was pouring outside, I was covered in luggage, and suddenly I had no idea where I was supposed to go. My hostel’s address was written on my smartphone, now in the pocket of a Bosnian gypsy.
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Aug 022010
 

During a quick stroll through Mostar’s old town district on my second evening there, I encountered The Friendly Tout who I’d met at the bus station several days earlier – the tout who was solely responsible for my getting off and visiting the city in the first place. I didn’t recognize him at first, but luckily he called out and invited me to join him and his friends at a little streetside cafe as I walked by. We spent half an hour or so chatting about my onward travel plans; although I was clearly taken by his little city, I’d decided a few hours earlier that the time had come to continue making my way North towards Serbia. He recommended that before doing so, I should squeeze in a quick hike to Kravice Falls – a “Mini Niagara” with a pleasant swimming hole at its base. It sounded like a great idea…until I awoke on my final morning to a sky that had once again turned cold and rainy. So I decided to plow straight through to the capital city of Sarajevo instead.
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