I was last seen 5 months ago in Los Angeles, .
Sep 132010
 

Odesa is known throughout Russia and Ukraine as a glowing center of nightlife, of culture, of beaches, and of beauties. It sees more tourism than anywhere in the former Soviet Union – just as it has for countless decades. Everyone I know who’s been here has shared nothing but rave reviews; when I told a friend I’d be spending a few weeks in Budapest, his first words of advice were “make sure you grab a flight to Odesa. You won’t regret it.”

Odesa is and always has been the place to be seen; it’s crazy and cool, a culture of its own, described as everything from “the hotbed of Ukrainian hedonism” (Lonely Planet) to a place with “more colour, more spunk, more irreverence than any other Soviet city’ (Maurice Friedberg, How Things Were Done). Simon Sebag-Montefiore of The Independent says, ‘Odessans, from the city’s raffish gangsters to its lissom girls, are convinced that they are superior in culture and style to anyone in Moscow or London…And they are absolutely right.’ The colorful reviews go on and on. Continue reading »

Sep 122010
 

By the time we checked into our hotel, cleaned ourselves up, grabbed a couple beers at the local supermarket, and headed out, it was already after midnight. We made it about 10 steps before the police stopped to hassle us.

“No drinking in public” they said the moment they noticed we were speaking English. “Show us your documents.”

Aha! This time we were ready for them! Continue reading »

Sep 112010
 

When Peder and I first started planning this trip, I told him that one of my top priorities was to ensure that our weekends overlap with the best nightlife-oriented cities possible. There’s little sense in going somewhere like Odesa, famous for its dusk-till-dawn parties, on Tuesday then wasting Saturday in a small town known only for its botanical gardens.

This goal was the main reason for our rapid “one-day-per-city” pace through Romania and Moldova; if we wanted to spend our first weekend in Belgrade and the next in Odesa, it left just four days to make it across an enormous (and not particularly well-equipped) part of the world.

But miraculously, we did make it. We’d awoken Friday morning in Moldova, crossed Transdniestr, and arrived in Odesa before dark – with just enough time to find ourselves a place to stay before our first night out on the coast of the Black Sea.
Continue reading »

Sep 082010
 

There I was, standing alone with a tall, armed, Russian-speaking border guard in a country that isn’t even supposed to exist. It was clear from his demeanor that he wasn’t playing around. It was also clear that he had no intention of letting me leave his little fantasyland before getting from me whatever it was he wanted. What wasn’t clear was what he was saying – something along the lines of “big problem” and “no Moldova exit stamp.”

Okay, so maybe it was sort of clear what he was saying – but because his English was so poor, I did the first thing that popped into my head: I pretended not to understand.

Eventually he went into his office to make a phone call, so I took the opportunity to slip all my souvenir money out of my wallet and bury it as deep in my backpack as possible. Although I had virtually no local currency on me, I wasn’t about to risk the huge variety of foreign bills I’d accumulated over the preceding weeks of travel. It was pretty obvious where this was going, and though I couldn’t back out now, I at least hoped to save what I could. Continue reading »

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