I was last seen 5 months ago in Los Angeles, .
Oct 072010
 

The feeling of Kiev couldn’t be more different from Odesa.

First, it really is a major urban metropolis – like Belgrade – with clearly a lot of wealth behind it. Although Odesa did have its few glitzy corners, in general it really didn’t feel all that first-world: stray dogs roamed about, beggars held out their hands, and countless locals loitered the streets in ripped, stained shorts. It felt like the “raw Eastern-European city” you might envision. But here in Kiev, litter-free boulevards are lined with big hotels, occupied by well-dressed pedestrians, and trafficked by expensive Western sports cars. It truly looks like a different country.
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Oct 062010
 

Our minibus arrived in Kiev just before midnight. Although we hadn’t reserved any lodgings for the evening, I’d read in Lonely Planet that there are loads of clean, cheap rooms available right inside the main train station – so I figured that showing up and finding a place would be relatively quick and painless.

Oops. I probably should’ve noticed that the bus and train stations are on opposite ends of the city 😐 Continue reading »

Oct 012010
 

In the late 1700’s, Count Stanisław Szczęsny Potocki, a Polish noble, fell in love with Zofia Potocka, a Greek slave and prostitute. He bought her from her husband for two million złoty, married her, and began construction on what is now one of Ukraine’s greatest wonders: a 150-hectare park complete with grottoes, lakes, waterfalls, fountains, pavilions, and 500 species of trees imported from all across Europe.

It’s been described as “Ukraine’s answer to Versailles” – the Count’s gift to his new wife, and a monument to her physical perfection. By the time construction was finished in 1802 it had cost him roughly 15 million złoty.

What a gift, ‘eh?
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Sep 282010
 

Ordinarily, I wait to do my “observations post” until after finishing a given country’s narrative – but because Odesa felt so different from the rest of Ukraine, almost like a second little country of its own, I’m going to split things up and handle it ahead of time.

But first, a few points I’d like to reiterate about this unique city’s reputation (from Odesa: Hotspot of Hedonism):

First, its nightlife; Odesa is known for going wild until dawn nearly every night of the week. Second, its women; described by countless observers as some of the most beautiful on earth. And third, its visitors; Odesa is renowned as a top hangout for vacationing Russian mafia (due in no small part I’m sure to the previous two points).

So with those in mind, let’s get started with my Odesa observations. General Ukraine observations will follow a bit farther down the road. Continue reading »

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